‘The absence becomes the point’: the steady march of barely there shoes

When is a shoe not a shoe? On sale this month is a pair that seems to pose the question: Dear Frances’s Balla shoe, described by the brand as a “sock shoe”, covers almost the entire foot while also leaving it visible in a flimsy foot‑cage. The no shoe‑shoe continues a steady march of designs that treat the foot like naked dressing for the foot.

Jane Frances, the creative director and founder, says the Balla “offers a unique, glove‑like fit wearability” and “takes inspiration from the delicate strength of a woman”. The trend has dovetailed with a broader moment in which toes have taken centre stage, from Vibram’s FiveFingers on pavements to celebrity sightings by the likes of Rihanna.

Mesh styles can be traced back to 2022 and Alaïa’s fishnet ballet flats, which triggered a wave of high‑fashion iterations and high‑street copies. Tiffany Hill, founder of Trend Suite, says Alaïa “gave consumers something familiar – the ballet flat – but made it feel more intimate, lighter and slightly exposed.

sock shoe, dear frances, balla, alaïa, ballet flats, mesh styles, vibram, fivefingers, toe trend, rihanna