How chilli crisp became a pantry staple and how to make it

In many British supermarkets a red jar labelled Lao Gan Ma — meaning “old godmother” — has become a familiar sight. The brand’s chilli crisp, named on the label for Tao Huabi, has been spooned over dumplings, fried eggs, noodles and even ice-cream, becoming a social media sensation and spawning a thriving cottage industry of independent producers in the UK.

Fuchsia Dunlop captures the appeal: “It’s far more exciting than a bottle of ketchup!” Unlike a simple chilli oil, a crisp is made by pouring hot oil over chilli flakes, spice mixes and fresh ingredients such as spring onions, garlic and peanuts, producing textures that range from jammy and piquant to sizzling and crunchy.

Demand has surged: Tom Palmer of Yep Kitchen, who launched his Sichuan-inspired crisp in 2023, has sold more than 120,000 jars and moved from home batches to building a factory, even importing machines from China to jar oil with the right amount of crunchy sediment.

United Kingdom

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