Zylia, London WC2 — a homey Greek-Cypriot taverna with unfussy cooking

There’s a brand new Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden called Zylia, offering taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko and kaimaki ice-cream. Pale, humbly furnished and deliberately homespun in its styling, it somehow has the feel of a family taverna that’s been here for about 62 years, though that atmosphere comes from clever interior design and a thoughtful, authentic menu rather than any actual yiayia or one-eared dog.

Chef Nick Molyviatis and hospitality veteran Barry Karacostas are behind the project. Zylia is counted as part of the new Covent Garden Arcade but, unusually, has its own front door, brick walls, website and identity; step out of Zylia and into Arcade and the contrast between the two spaces is striking.

The menu is unshowily Greek-Cypriot and draws from both islands across mezedakia, salads, grill, specials and dessert.

United Kingdom, Covent Garden, London

zylia, covent garden, greek-cypriot, taverna, taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko, kaimaki, nick molyviatis