Vegan for my mental health as interest appears to wane

A writer who says she is vegan reflects on Veganuary and on signs that interest in veganism may be fading. She notes the usual retail novelties that accompany January, but calls the season "muted" and worries about a wider inflection point in plant-based eating. The piece cites recent coverage, including a New York Magazine investigation whose tagline read, "Plant-based eating was supposed to be the future.

Then meat came roaring back," and which detailed vegan restaurant closures, declining sales of meat substitutes and a static share of people identifying as vegan at around 1%. The writer also references closures of UK vegan restaurants and a high-profile reversal at Eleven Madison Park to serving "animal products for certain dishes." Possible explanations discussed include a US meat revival that has seen rising meat sales, a provocative backlash against what the writer calls woke orthodoxies, and the influence of figures such as RFK Jr, whose new dietary guidelines were described as making steak central.

The American Heart Association was said to be underwhelmed, highlighting links between red meat, animal fats and "increased cardiovascular risk." The writer also points to a wellness-driven protein cult and concerns about ultra-processed foods in many plant-based imitations.

Key Topics

Culture, Veganism, Veganuary, Eleven Madison Park, Rfk Jr, American Heart Association